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  Author    HT07 Turbo + 320cc injectors + Adaptronic  (currently 2033 views)
fxdlidon
Posted on: Thursday, March 5th, 2009, 8:41:17pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Back in the performance turbo thread I mentioned that I'd manage to get an HT07 - 4B and a set of 320cc injectors from yahoo.japan. Now here's the rest of the story...

The plan was fairly simple. Fit the injectors, let the Adaptrinic get the fuelling right up to about 1.2 bar (as much steady boost as the standard turbo will give) then bolt on the new trurbo, turn up the boost and see what happens (tha HT07 should be good for at least a steady 1.4 bar maybe more)
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Thursday, March 5th, 2009, 8:42:09pm
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I wont bore you with the trials and tribulations of fitting new injectors on an AZ-1 - the inlet manifold is very different to the cappo's. I cant even get a pic of them but this pic shows where the end of the fuel rail is which will give you some idea...

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fxdlidon
Posted on: Thursday, March 5th, 2009, 8:44:24pm Quote Report to Moderator
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I thought setting them up would be easy - injectors are %30 bigger, reduce the fuel map by %30. OH NO! life just isn't that simple!

Finally got the engine started with a %10 reduction then had to spend 1/2hour or so in Warvi fiddling with the fuel in individual cells till I could get a stedy idle, then a quick run in 'rapid learning', to get the map starting to look sensible, then on to 'slow converge' to get it right.

This was all going very well until I fitted a new 3bar map sensor to cope with the planned increase in boost - bl**dy thing died the minute I hit 1bar and, I then discoverd (100 miles from home) that the Adaptronic wont run without a working map sensor Fortunately I still had the old one with me and was able to put that back on and get home

So my run that day, which was going to get the fuelling set up right, didn't happen - had to wait till the trip to Goodwood, last weekend with a new 2.5bar map sensor, before I got the fueling close enough to try the new turbo.
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Thursday, March 5th, 2009, 8:50:13pm
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So today - Old turbo out!

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fxdlidon
Posted on: Thursday, March 5th, 2009, 8:52:01pm
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Here's a pic of the old and new together - HT07 on the left. The inlet is 35mm dia as opposed to 29mm standard. I've opened up the end of the inlet pipe to match, but ideally it could do with the inlet casting bored out all the way to 35mm to take full advantage of the larger bore of the turbo.

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fxdlidon
Posted on: Thursday, March 5th, 2009, 8:52:39pm
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And another showing the exhaust side.

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fxdlidon
Posted on: Thursday, March 5th, 2009, 8:54:42pm
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And now...

New turbo in (actually for the 2nd time, I dropped a washer down the outlet the first time and had to take it off again to get it out)

On the AZ-1 the turbo is a straight replacement, apart from having to reshape the water pipes. On the cappo however you would need a spacer on the inlet pipe to clear the wastegate actuator. Have a look here - http://66.163.168.225/babelfis......co.jp%2Fht07_1.html

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fxdlidon
Posted on: Thursday, March 5th, 2009, 8:55:20pm Quote Report to Moderator
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More tomorrow after I finish bolting all the bits back on including, hopefully, some first driving impressions


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Chris S
Posted on: Friday, March 6th, 2009, 8:28:58am
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Nice work.  I look forward to hearing how it drives.
Interesting to see the turbo you took off.  It does have the VZ25 model number, and you can see that the
exhaust turbine is much larger than the standard cappo VZ24.  It's like your old turbo has the exhaust side of the suzuki sport turbo, with the compressor side of the standard turbo.
Here's a pic. of the outlet of my VZ24:

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fxdlidon
Posted on: Friday, March 6th, 2009, 9:51:53am Quote Report to Moderator
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It's the standard AZ-1 turbo - as Ed mentioned back in the performance turbo thread "not all VZ25's are the Suzuki Sport one", if you're buying one make sure you check the whole part number. This one has an AR of 7, the same as the VZ24 on the cappo.

I haven't got any figures to prove this but it feels like the boost comes in a bit later than the cappo but keeps going a bit longer. That's just my driving impression anyway.
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Chris S
Posted on: Friday, March 6th, 2009, 11:21:33am Quote Report to Moderator
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That'd make sense.
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Friday, March 6th, 2009, 7:18:48pm
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All back together, and fired up first time with no leaks

It took most of the day as I couldn't get the banjo bolt for the oil feed back into the engine. The surface it mounts to on the turbo must me at a slightly different angle, or in a slightly different position, and I think I had the turbo in and out about 8 times slightly changing the shape of the pipe until eventually I got it to fit


Last modified Friday, March 6th, 2009, 7:19:23pm by fxdlidon
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Friday, March 6th, 2009, 7:27:25pm Quote Report to Moderator
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...and the first drive - that was a disaster! The engine kept cutting out every 20 yards or so, was only when I got it back and had a good look I realised I hadn't re-fitted the knock sensor and it was bouncing along the road cutting the engine every time it bounced.

2nd run was much better. Boost really starts building at about 3500 then just keeps on going finally tailing off at about 8500. Once I've set up the duty cycles for the new turbo to get a nice boost curve this is going to be very quick It easily hit the 1.25bar limit I've currently got set.

Last modified Friday, March 6th, 2009, 7:27:52pm by fxdlidon
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Andy
Posted on: Friday, March 6th, 2009, 7:53:18pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Nice one Don

Drop me a PM if you would like to be added to the ClubCappo Member Map.  More details can be found here.
We now have an official Facebook group as well as a page! See here
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Saturday, March 7th, 2009, 5:43:06pm Quote Report to Moderator
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and one last thing that I forgot. The bottom lug on the impeller side of the turbo needs grinding back about 2.5mm. If you dont do this the oil  filter will be very stiff to take out and impossible to re-fit! ...did an oil and filter change today.

Still I must be getting good at  taking off and re-fitting AZ-1 turbo's. Got it out, the lug ground back. and the whole lot back and running in 2 hours today  

No pics as I was over at my mates shop and didn't have my camera with me. I'll take one next time it's off.(not fer a while hopefully)


Last modified Saturday, March 7th, 2009, 5:48:06pm by fxdlidon
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Sunday, March 8th, 2009, 12:19:21pm
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Used the quiet sunday morning roads to do the tedious job of setting up the duty cycles for the boost control, was worth it though!

Graph shows what I was getting with the standard turbo and what I'm getting now. I'm fairly sure the HT07 would go higher but my map sensor runs out at 2.5 bar (250kPa) so I'm not going to risk it. And anyway the car is quite fast enough as it is

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fxdlidon
Posted on: Monday, March 9th, 2009, 11:23:06am
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The bit that needs grinding back is the section of the lug under the red line

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Ricou
Posted on: Monday, March 9th, 2009, 12:48:44pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Thanks for sharing all this stuff fxdlidon !
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grant4561
Posted on: Wednesday, March 11th, 2009, 3:37:08am Quote Report to Moderator
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Excellant...............now to find a HT07.
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Thursday, April 30th, 2009, 8:30:31pm
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Earlier on in this thread I said about the inlet to the turbo being constricted. This has been bothering me ever since I fitted it so I made up this...

It's a 35mm manifold stub to fit the turbo inlet.

edit: oops wrong pic - this is the one of it all fitted


Last modified Thursday, April 30th, 2009, 8:32:15pm by fxdlidon
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Thursday, April 30th, 2009, 8:35:03pm
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Here's the one of the stub manifold

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fxdlidon
Posted on: Thursday, April 30th, 2009, 8:36:03pm
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...and her's how it all used to look

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fxdlidon
Posted on: Thursday, April 30th, 2009, 8:43:58pm Quote Report to Moderator
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I'm surprised at the difference it's made. Loads more low down torque and I'm going to have to redo all the duty cycles on the boost control - it keeps overboosting at anything over 3/4 throttle above 4500rpm.

Mind you it's not surprising, if I've got my maths right, I make the increase in surface area from 29mm to 35mm is about %45 - so loads more air getting in
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Chris S
Posted on: Friday, May 1st, 2009, 5:53:16pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Looks good Don.
I was planning on doing something similar, but had planned to modify an old ram-pipe from
a webber or SU carb.  In my case though it's more about removing the rather sharp 90 deg. bend in the standard intake.  I need to strip the air-con out so that the turbo can be fed almost directly from a new airbox (plan to get one off a bigger engined car from the breakers yard).  I also need the AC out as my new intercooler will be dropped in where the AC heat exchanger currently lives.

How did you fab, the new inlet?
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Friday, May 1st, 2009, 6:25:31pm Quote Report to Moderator
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New inlet was made from a piece of 12mm alloy plate and a piece of 38mm pipe joiner. Cut a 38mm hole in the plate with a cheap wood hole cutter, lots of oil to lube the cutting and cool it down when the oil starts boiling (cutter is not a lot of good anymore - seems to  have lost 1/2 it's teeth!) cut the plate to size then metal-epoxyed the pipe into it. The epoxy is good for 150 deg C so I'm hoping it doesn't get any hotter than that.

My air-con top mount was in the way so I needed to cut it down - I'll need to reinforce it at some point.

Getting an efficiant air feed into the turbo has made a lot more difference than I expected - well worth doing!
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grant4561
Posted on: Monday, May 4th, 2009, 12:22:14am Quote Report to Moderator
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Great work Don but I dont know about the metal-epoxy?
I think I would weld it to be safe.
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Tuesday, May 5th, 2009, 9:15:54pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from grant4561, posted Monday, May 4th, 2009, 12:22:14am at here
...but I dont know about the metal-epoxy?
I think I would weld it to be safe.



I agree but unfortunately I don't have the kit to weld aluminium   But now I know how well it works I'm working on a mk2 that I can get a mate to cnc then weld properly - just need to do some precise drawings.
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mdh
Posted on: Tuesday, August 4th, 2009, 6:30:59pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Couldnt you just use Lumniweld?
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Xpress
Posted on: Thursday, May 26th, 2011, 12:31:23pm Quote Report to Moderator
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how much hp reach with that turbo and injectors at 1.2bar?
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Thursday, May 26th, 2011, 2:10:33pm Quote Report to Moderator
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The only run I've got, the wastegate actuator was loose and I could only get 0.85 bar!
That day - 93.6bhp engine, 78.4 at the wheels.
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ycming
Posted on: Wednesday, June 15th, 2011, 1:17:48pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Hi there,

What plugs do you recommend for the Ht07 and 295cc injector?

Thanks
Ming
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Tiny
Posted on: Wednesday, June 15th, 2011, 1:27:22pm Quote Report to Moderator
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I went for NGK's DCPR9EIX in mine £27 delivered from sparkplugs.co.uk

Last modified Wednesday, June 15th, 2011, 1:28:32pm by Tiny
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ycming
Posted on: Wednesday, June 15th, 2011, 1:30:51pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Tiny, posted Wednesday, June 15th, 2011, 1:27:22pm at here
I went for NGK's DCPR9EIX in mine £27 delivered from sparkplugs.co.uk




hmm is that just standard plugs ? The NGK platium ones?
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Tiny
Posted on: Wednesday, June 15th, 2011, 1:47:13pm Quote Report to Moderator
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standars are 7s these are 2 grades cooler and and are the iridiums
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ycming
Posted on: Wednesday, June 15th, 2011, 1:48:28pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Tiny, posted Wednesday, June 15th, 2011, 1:47:13pm at here
standars are 7s these are 2 grades cooler and and are the iridiums



cool cool many thanks I be getting some of them ocne everythig is fitted

Ming
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Wednesday, June 15th, 2011, 3:37:10pm Quote Report to Moderator
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I used 8's rather than 9's as I was having starting issues in the cold weather with the 9's.
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Tiny
Posted on: Wednesday, June 15th, 2011, 4:50:15pm Quote Report to Moderator
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9s and having issue starting? did you gap check them on removal?
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Wednesday, June 15th, 2011, 10:35:50pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Gap was fine, but I do mean cold, -2 and lower!

Cold starting has always been a bit of a problem, it's probabley got something to do with the ecu originally being set up in OZ where they don't understand the meaning of the word cold (sorry guys)

It's always run perfectly on 8's though, even running 1.4 bar.
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Tiny
Posted on: Thursday, June 16th, 2011, 8:24:36am Quote Report to Moderator
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Ah so Worth keeping the old ones on removal for use mid winter :p

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grant4561
Posted on: Friday, June 17th, 2011, 9:36:06am Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from fxdlidon, posted Wednesday, June 15th, 2011, 10:35:50pm at here
Gap was fine, but I do mean cold, -2 and lower!

Cold starting has always been a bit of a problem, it's probabley got something to do with the ecu originally being set up in OZ where they don't understand the meaning of the word cold (sorry guys)

It's always run perfectly on 8's though, even running 1.4 bar.



WTF is cold?

I have tried nine's out here and yes there is a starting problem with them and if you idle for a bit they tend to foul up. Eight's work for me.
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