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 SHE LIVES! - kind of (currently 1189 views) |
| paolo |
| Posted on: Thursday, July 29th, 2010, 9:26:11pm |
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| So what does the check engine light mean? |
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Reply: 40 - 52 |
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| paolo |
| Posted on: Thursday, July 29th, 2010, 9:57:06pm |
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| that's it, this effing thing is going in the bin! Had enough now. |
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Reply: 41 - 52 |
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| Avar |
| Posted on: Thursday, July 29th, 2010, 10:49:27pm |
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:O oh blimey, i did wonder what VE tuning was.
On my car the check engine light means conditions are good for it to update a cell in the map, after a while this light will come on less and less as the MAP settles and is perfected.
You can see why i've left installing mine for a long time, its soooooooo bloody confusing and you have a tech background, i'm just a builder that likes to throw spanners at things once in a while  |
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Reply: 42 - 52 |
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| grant4561 |
| Posted on: Friday, July 30th, 2010, 12:35:53am |
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PM sent Paulo.
Check engine light means the ecu is self tuning the fuel map as Kei said above.
You may have to increase a couple of idles settings like minimum idle effort and effort based on coolant temp to get a stable idle until the ecu tunes the fuel map a bit better.
I sent Paulo the VE tune ecu file as its is slightly rich and probably a good file to start with until the ecu tunes the maps to suit your car.
The normal fuel maps I have at the moment for 295cc injectors are a bit lean to start with.
Hopefully explained a bit better in my PM to Paulo. |
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Reply: 43 - 52 |
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| grant4561 |
| Posted on: Friday, July 30th, 2010, 12:36:32am |
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| Oh yeah, Paulo did you calibrate your temp sensors once you got them connected & working? |
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Reply: 44 - 52 |
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| paolo |
| Posted on: Friday, July 30th, 2010, 8:16:52am |
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PM received and understood, thanks Grant
I have not calibrated the temp sensors, what is the best way to do that? |
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Reply: 45 - 52 |
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| grant4561 |
| Posted on: Friday, July 30th, 2010, 10:43:41am |
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With a cold engine just check the air temp sensor is about the same as the ambient temp or maybe a couple of degrees higher, it should be fairly close anyway.
The important one os the wtare temp sensor.
I usualy use a temp meter with a probe or a multimeter with a K type thermocouple sensor and zip tie it to the small water inlet/outlet pipes that go to the throttle body with some insulation around it. These water lines dont go through the thermostat and warm up as the engine does.
On the calibrate sensor thing as each temp hits a 5 degree seperation you click on the actual temp number for the ecu to self learn the setting.
Sometimes it will spike on the graph but dont worry you just hit the slf learn again or interpolate the settings later.
You are a naughty boy I dont think you read the manual.
The first thing you shopuld do once the ecu is installed is hit the F11 button and check your inputs and then outputs.
Use the F2 button as well to see actual readings of everything connected. |
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Reply: 46 - 52 |
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| paolo |
| Posted on: Friday, July 30th, 2010, 11:35:54am |
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You are a naughty boy I dont think you read the manual
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I consider myself spanked!
Being a man of course I did not read the manual. |
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Reply: 47 - 52 |
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| Avar |
| Posted on: Friday, July 30th, 2010, 2:48:35pm |
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Grants way is the A1* method of calibrating the water temp sensor, there is another way that wil get you started if you don't have the fancy temp probes.
There are 4 points at which you can calibrate the temp sensor these are the following.
1, prior to starting, ambient temp
2, the point at which your thermostatic valve open and sends water to the rad, it's not very scientific i know but if you can keep the car running and heating up there will be a point when your top rad pipe will suddenly get very hot, if you know the opening temp of the valve you have your second temp.
3, the point at which your rad fan starts up, if you have a good rad therm then by looking at the cappo manual you can find out that temp.
and finally
4, the point at which your rad fan turns off, again found in the manual.
You should then be able to setup the rest using these points. Its not ideal but should tell you if your ecu and sensor are playing on the same field. |
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Reply: 48 - 52 |
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| paolo |
| Posted on: Friday, July 30th, 2010, 3:19:51pm |
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Thanks Kei, I think I will try that as I can't find my "K type thermocouple sensor"  |
Last modified Friday, July 30th, 2010, 3:23:43pm by paolo |
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Reply: 49 - 52 |
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| paolo |
| Posted on: Saturday, July 31st, 2010, 9:52:40pm |
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I bought a temp meter with a probe today and calibrated the air and water. They were reading lower that they should, so now I have corrected them.
The car is driving ok now, a little rough but I guess that will be "learned out" as I put more miles on the car.
I still have idle issues. On a cold start it starts and idles perfectly, until the water temp gets to about 60 degrees then it simply dies, and is not happy about starting again.
I have tried upping the target idle on the higher temps in WARI but to avail. Any ideas?
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Reply: 50 - 52 |
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| Chris S |
| Posted on: Saturday, July 31st, 2010, 11:57:54pm |
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Paolo,
Getting everything setup can be quite frustrating. I'm still not happy with the way mine
starts. It always does, but seems quite inconsistent and nowhere near as nice as the
standard ECU.
It might be useful if you post your ECU file so we can take look and see what settings you have.
As the engine warms up, the coolant temp. enrichment will reduce so it could be that
your running too lean when you hit ~60 C.
Also various ECU functions can be enabled once you hit a temperature threshold. For instance
it may be that your cutting out is caused by the ECU transitioning from open-loop fueling
mode to closed loop (see Corrections->Set Closed Loop/Adaptive Mode Parameters).
Other tips:
1. While getting started I recommend using open-loop idle control (0 all idle PID values).
Set the base idle values so you get a reliable ~1200 RPM idle at all temperatures.
Once you have the idle fuel map sorted out you'll find it much easier to tune the PID idle controller.
2. Get your MAP sensor calibrated as well as you can.
3. Setup the fuel map manually for idle and low load conditions.
4. Make sure you don't let the ECU auto-learn below 2000 RPM as it will start screwing with your
idle fueling. I'm not very impressed with the results of the slow-convergence mode.
I haven't found any PI settings that result in a smooth map (I'm running open-loop).
This may be down to the latency of the RS232 connection to my WB02 sensor though.
5. Read the manual
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Reply: 51 - 52 |
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| grant4561 |
| Posted on: Monday, August 2nd, 2010, 12:48:29am |
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Paulo,
Above all dont change to many settings at once or you may get lost.
Do one thing at a time and gauge the results. |
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Reply: 52 - 52 |
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Cappuccino Owners Club › Specific Discussion Boards › Adaptronic ECU › SHE LIVES! - kind of (Moderators: )
