I've found one that fits, well sort of. It rotates the wrong way, which doesn't matter, and it needs a simple adaptor plate. It's a Weber PF09 and there used on some performance fords, lancias, and some Italian bikes. The data sheet on it is here http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?wymwlg2mgam

Pic shows the tps and the adaptor plate. Centre hole is 15mm; the next 2 out are for mounting -  52mm apart, 5mm and countersunk so the tps can fit flusht: the outer 2 are 70mm apart and threaded, 4mm, to attach the tps to. I just cut out the plate to roughly the size of the tps body. (sorry CG, I didn't bother to polish it (smile))

Adaptor plate bolted to the engine with two 4 X 10mm long countersunk screws.

Then slide the tps on verically, as I said it's spring loaded to rotate the wrong way. I had to slacken off a bit of plumbing to make this easy.

you can then rotate it, against the spring, to its final position and bolt it in place.

Then put all the bits back on and connect it up.

The wiring is simple, all 3 wires go to the 20pin connector.

The top wire, (A on the tps) goes to red (TPS +5v)
The middle one (B) to black (TPS GND) green (TPS SIGNAL)
And the bottom one (C) to green (TPS SIGNAL)  black (TPS GND)

I think this is the most common pin-out

The connect up your lappie, start wari, and on the Analogue tab use the learn buttons in 'TPS calibration' to teach it what closed and WOT are.

Then go to the Aux In tab and set input 3 and 4 to none, we're not using them anymore.

First test drive was very promising - no more transient throttle issuse :D. I found myself waiting for that little blip when I touched the throttle and it has gone completely!

Excellent job, gotta search for that TPS then, how thick was your adaptor plate? and did you need a new connector for the TPS or did the original one work?

“ Quoted from Avar, posted Saturday, September 27th, 2008, 4:46:40pm at here ” Excellent job, gotta search for that TPS then, how thick was your adaptor plate? and did you need a new connector for the TPS or did the original one work?

Sorry, forgot to say(doh) adaptor plate was 2.5mm aluminium and the plug is a standard ford type. I got mine here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300257869002, but you should be able to get one from a breakers, they're fairly standard

Well i've managed to source this TPS, hopefully i'll get it cheap.  I wish we had more scrap yards about, it would make life so much easier, rather than having to trawl the net for parts.

New plugs are on there way too as the iridiums were not working, the fine tips foul up so quickly.

I think i've found a 3 bar sensor too, only thing i need to do now is mount my new water sensor and i'll be able to confirm the ECU is getting exactly what the meter is reading.

!!! IMPORTANT !!!

I've just found out that the pin-outs on these tps's is not consistant - sometimes the signal is on pin B and sometimes on pin C - I think it depends on the vehicle it was designed for.

I haven't been able to test this but I'm fairly sure that if it's the other type to the wiring I specified above, you would get erratic tps reading in wari. If you get this swap the wires connected to B and C on the tps, this should sort it.

Well i'll soon find out, found a TPS on evil bay for 14 plus postage, exactly the same as yours but from a Lancia HF :) it's winging it's way here now so hopefully have the car back up and running like a dream this weekend.

Well I've been running with this fitted for over a week now so I guess an update's in order...

:D :D :D If you are going to make one mod to your setup then this is the one to do - well from my experience anyway, lets wait and see what Kei has to say. My car is running smoother right through the rev range, no transient throttle probs and the slight dip at 5000rmp under load has vanished. If Kei gets the same results then this has to be the way to go!

Only prob I had was of my own making, I was a bit lax on routing the wire and it wore through to the bare copper on one of the drive shafts - not good as the MAP sensor uses the same earth line ! But rather than go back to the original tps, which would have been simple as the wiring is still there, I found myself lying under the car in what felt like a river, (it was raining) fixing the new sender wires in the dark - I just didn't want to go back!!!

We got a problem with fitting the TPS, looks like the manifold / injector rail could be different between our cars, i will post some pics later to show details.  :(

Its tight with just the plate, the fuel rail must be different on your car.

And i think your original sensor differs slightly.

Yep the intake manifold is completely different on the AZ-1 and so the fuel rail isn't a problem.

I think i can get around it, but will have to open up the TPS to see if i can lose a bit from the side, i only need 5mm max.  The plate can be modified to fit :)

As Andy says, my tps is on the opposite side to the fuel rail. I had a good look last time I had my nose under a cappo bonnet and thought it would fit - sorry(embarassed). The difference between the mounting holes is more likely to be down to my failing eyesight but at least that can be fixed.
Anyway, as they used to say on Blue Peter, "here's one I prepared earlier" it's 9mm from the base of the body of the sensor to the track for the pot - hope this helps.

In fact the whole of the area in red here can safely be removed

Cheers Don, with those pics in mind i managed to cut out the small area in the way and it fits a treat.  As i couldn't twist the sensor i opened the throttle fully and slotted the sensor in place  :)

I just have to fit my new loom and no more throttle issues  :D

Glad it's on now :D I just hope it transforms your car like it has mine!

Opened up sensor was the first one I got hold of, non - functional one from a Ducati (freebie), got it to see if it would fit but couldn't resist opening it up to have a look :)

Well it's fitted and running, apart from the fitting issues i've had no other problems, the connection was the same pin out as mentioned above.

I still am getting a little hesitation though, not in actual throttle response but on bounce back i.e if i let the rev's drop back down to idle and blip the throttle just as it hits 1100 it will try to stall.  I just need to alter a few settings i'm sure, this is more noticable during fuel learning mode so it must be a a simple fueling issue.

Nearly there  ;D

Pics to follow.

There's a couple of changes I made that could help here but I can't remember what they were. I'm away till tomorrow but when I get back to a sensible computer I'll post them.

Your probabley right about it being a fueling issue - the original setup was very rich at low map/low rpm.

These are the 2 other changes I've made:
On the corrections tab under Transient Throttle I've increased the TPS component and reduced the MAP component - I'm still playing with this, a small change every day till I get it right, but this is where I am now.

The other is on the Idle tab - Calmdown under Closed Loop Idle Control. It just slows down slightly how quickly the engine goes back to idle after blipping the throttle.

Cool i'll give them a try.

Heres the modded pre taped TPS.  To fit, open the throttle to max and just slide on.

And fitted.

Its been a while.... Good to see there's so much progress though!!!!!
Have one of those Sensors on the way hopefully also, Will let you know how it goes........

Received my new analogue TPS on Friday so fitted it on the weekend. It suits early 1990's Nissan 18/200SX, 300ZX and a few other models so is reasonabley easy to get and a reasonable price.
Physically the same size as the original one and takes the "D" shaped shaft. It has 2 sets of connections though. One on a lead that is the anaolgue connection and one on the body thats the digital connection, like the standard cappo one. It only has a digital output for closedor idle throttle position but I believe you get them with a WOT position as well. The rotation is the oposite direction to the standard one so when fitted tyhe digital idle postion output becomes a WOT output.

And a view of the original and Nissan TPS from the back.

It fits straight on the throttle body in exactly the same position as the original but the elongated mounting holes are about 1.5mm closer together on each side so need to be ground out slightly.

View from the top fitted.

And from the front. really easy to set up with the Adaptronics learning abaility. I only had time for a quick test drive around the block but its quite noticeable the gain in performance and extra pulling power/torque down low. As quoted above this is a must do mod. Sorry about the poor quality of the pics, I will use a proper camera next time instead of an elcheapo phone one.

Well done Grant (thumbsup) that TPS looks like a good find.

Not only will you notice the difference driving but it opens up other posabilities in the Adapronic

Would make a hell of alot of a differance for me as im not getting a tps signal as it is  :X

So once i work out how much i need for uni; tps, knock sensor and a wideband oxygen sensor are a priority with the boost controller being next in line.

Oh and thanks for saving me the hassle of working out which tps is compatible and easily available in aus, might even be able to get a free one off a mate :P

^ once you've got an analogue tps, for the price of one of these http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SS0905&CATID=&keywords=solenoid&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID= (or even an old injector) and a foot or so of rubber pipe, you could set up the Adaptronic as your boost controller. It does it very well (bigsmile)

“ Quoted from Chernoby1, posted Monday, January 19th, 2009, 3:43:34pm at here ” Would make a hell of alot of a differance for me as im not getting a tps signal as it is  :X So once i work out how much i need for uni; tps, knock sensor and a wideband oxygen sensor are a priority with the boost controller being next in line. Oh and thanks for saving me the hassle of working out which tps is compatible and easily available in aus, might even be able to get a free one off a mate :P

The Knock Sensor cost $ 52.00 delivered and the TPS was $ 45.00 delivered.

I have connected the digital WOT signal from the TPS but have disbaled it on the Adaptronic at the moment and am using just the analogue signal. I might use the digital WOT output to operate another outpiut for something else. To fit the standrad TPS plug to the new TPS you have to grind down a couple of lugs on the new TPS and the 3 pins inside need a 1mm off the sides of them.

Don,
What would you suggest to be the best tuning mode now?

First thing to do is, on the Corrections tab, set Ignition Control to Closed Loop, and in 'Closed Loop Parameters' set 'Knock Level to Retard' to 4. (The original setting, 1, seems a bit over sensitive to things like duff gear shifts ect.) This will allow the knock sensor input to be used.

I found my background noise levels were still a bit low in the 4-5000rpm range and I needed to increase them by 8 - 10 to stop the knock sensor killing the ignition when I was accelerating hard in 3rd.

There's a thread here on adaptive ignition http://www.adaptronic.com.au/forum/index.php?topic=252.0 although I haven't tried it yet - I was more worried about the fueling going too weak and causing the engine to knock when I setting up the boost control.

On those Nissan sensors the connector on the main body is usually throttle fully open/closed switches.

The pot connects to the flylead connector.

That's certainly the case on S13 200sx ones because that's what I used to use back in the day on S12's when I was doing management conversions on them (the S12's only had a switch as stock)

It's better to keep the sensor sealed if you can, especially if your ECU uses it as the primary load reference. I have seen several engine failures over the years that came down to a bad TPS.

The Weber sensors are opposite hands on a Fiat Croma IE to what they are on a Cosworth, FYI.

IMHO, I'd be making a nice bracket to fit a TPS from something like a BMW E36, as they are small, are used across a wide range of cars which means the dealer stocks them and they're fairly cheap to buy.

^ You only have to connect the pot on the flylead connector and not the switch outputs on the main body.
No mods to the Nissan TPS either apart from grinding out the elongated mounting holes a touch, it slips straight on and clears the fuel rail.
Here in OZ Nissan parts are probably one of the most readily available and hence priced OK as well.

Well I've just picked up two of these Nissan sensors on ebay for a reasonable price.  Assuming they
both work OK, I should have a spare one if anyone is interested.

You'll really notice the difference when you get it fitted.

“ Quoted from grant4561, posted Tuesday, January 27th, 2009, 4:56:13am at here ” ^ You only have to connect the pot on the flylead connector and not the switch outputs on the main body.

Looked in the pic like it was on the main TPS body connector is all....

I have connected both but disabled the main body digital ouptuts for the moment and am just using the analogue output.
The pink plug in the pic is the analogue connector. I changed the standard plug as I didnt have a matching connector.

Nissan TPS wiring info, not that its complicated but I forgot to post it up earlier.

Thanks Grant, very useful.

Do you guys have the tps directly hooked up to the adaptronic? Or does it go to the original ecu too?

And Chris,

Do you still have the spare tps?

On the Nissan TPS, there is a 'switch' output and an analogue output. I currently only have the analogue connected to the Adaptronic, But i belive that Grant has also connected the Switch output into the original loom. No real need to do this if your running the Adaptronic, but a good idea if you migth ever need to have the stock ecu back in there.

That sounds real handy that switch output.

Hoping Chris still got that spare one then!

“ Quoted from Ezra, posted Tuesday, November 3rd, 2009, 7:26:44pm at here ” Do you guys have the tps directly hooked up to the adaptronic? Or does it go to the original ecu too? And Chris, Do you still have the spare tps?

The original ECU is gone.
I used the same wires to connect my new analogue TPS to the Adaptronic.
Th Nissan one's are a dime a dozen here in OZ and I imagine they would be fairly common in the UK also.

Aha, so that's how it is..

Well I want to install a piggyback fc. So the ecu will still be there.
That's why having 2 outputs on the tps sounds so good! The sensor one for the fc and the switch one for the ecu.

Ezra,

I wired the digital signals on the new TPS on the original harness for standard ECU compatibility,
then added a new wiring run for the analogue side back to the Adaptronic.
I do still have the other TPS, see your PMs.

If you use the Nissan TPS there are a couple of variations of them, not with the variable output but some only have a WOT switch and no idle switch and visa versa. There are some with both though.
Check before you buy as they all look the same.

I got my Nissan TPS from Chris (thanks!) and installed it.
Looking at the wiring info Grant posted I should supply it with 5V.

It says terminals 4 and 6 for 5V. And 4 and 5 for the output.

But which one is + and which -? And where do I get the 5V from?

“ Quoted from Ezra, posted Wednesday, December 9th, 2009, 1:56:53pm at here ” I got my Nissan TPS from Chris (thanks!) and installed it. Looking at the wiring info Grant posted I should supply it with 5V. It says terminals 4 and 6 for 5V. And 4 and 5 for the output. But which one is + and which -? And where do I get the 5V from?

Looking on my car, it's wired as follows (I can only assume the TPS I sent you is wired the
same way):
  - Blue - GND
  - White - TPS signal
  - Pink - 5V
I took the +5V from the Adaptronic so you'll need to find a supply from elsewhere - perhaps your monitoring circuitry?  It doesn't have to be 5V as the TPS is just a potentiometer, you'll need to
feed it something appropriate for your a2d circuits input range.

For the idle/WOT switches, I was able to plug the original loom connector on to the Nissan TPS after
removing the two locating keys on the TPS plug,  the signals seem to be the correct way round for me but you might want to check this on the TPS you have:

Thanks!

I'll have to find a 5V supply from somewhere indeed. Or just take 12 from somewhere and make it 5.

I also did the same as you did with the switch. It fits very good.

Well, I'll be after the 5V then!

Edit: It seems the iphone charger charges at 5v. So I'm gonna take a car adapter apart and use that I think :)

Don't use a separate 5 volt supply, use a 5 volt supply from the ecu.

Are you talking about the original ecu? And why cant I use a separate supply?

Would anyone have the part number for the Nissan TPS close to hand? I'd like to order one but I want to make sure I get the correct type :)

I will try and have a look at the one I fitted to my cappo but they are a very common Nissan one and if you have any Japanese auto wreckers nerby its probably easier to go there and pick one.

I managed to pick up an analogue nissan tps from a wrecker. I asked for an early 90's maxima one, and was given one from an infiniti q45, along with the explanation that "they're all the same".

It's made by JECS and has the part number a22 641 922.

Great write up by Grant and Don, I followed their instructions and it works perfectly :)

Good to here Brett,

It is easier than most people think I think? If that makes sense.

Beer time here now anyway ;D
Catchulater.

“ Quoted Text ” It's made by JECS and has the part number a22 641 922

Are these available in the UK?  I have done a search and I can only seem to find them in the US.

“ Quoted from paolo, posted Wednesday, June 9th, 2010, 9:32:44am at here ” Are these available in the UK?  I have done a search and I can only seem to find them in the US.

I don't think the infiniti was ever released to europe / uk. Maybe an early 90's maxima might be compatible? Ebay might also be an option:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-96-NISSAN-300ZX-THROTTLE-POSITION-SENSOR-TPS-MAXIMA-/180509063486

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995-NISSAN-PATHFINDER-TPS-PT-A22-643L02-OEM-A22-/270581171084

Although I can't guarantee it, both of these _look_ exactly the same as the one I bought, often these parts are common to various models for one manufacturer, yet they sport different part numbers and slightly different connectors, etc.

The common thread seems to be that these are for automatic v6 or v8 models, and the one to go for has the two connections, one from the body of the tps, and the analogue connection on a separate flylead.

Apparently a number of supra drivers have also done this mod here in oz so your local jap import wrecker may be in the know.

Hope this helps!

They certainly look like the right ones.
The thing is to make sure you get one with the fly lead connection as thats the analogue output as you said.

Well after spending a day tidying up the extra loom i've added, acquiring and soldering the connectors and the Adaptronic loom into place i've now found my weber pf09 TPS has failed.  Probably, like wayne mentioned due to me having to cut it open and alter the case, so i've now got to source another TPS.
We don't have auto dismantlers in the country now either due to H & S or real estate costs, so if anyone has a spare nissan unit or know where i can get one it would be greatly appreciated.

I might have a spare one but I will check tomorrow as its night here now and bloody cold, it's only +18C.

Ir not there are a couple of jap wreckers in my area which I know have them but cant check that until at least Tuesday as its the Queens Birthday holiday here on Monday?

Your taking the mick aren't you, its winter there and your getting 18c at night, we're only just hitting that most days.

If you can find one it would be appreciated, i think i've found another possible candidate, but cant say for sure till i find my tape measure and then a supplier and then actually see if the rotation is correct :)

http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/downloads/sensors_throttleposition.pdf

the 001 looks like a good fit.

The rotation doesnt matter as the analouge output is just from a variable resitor and you can connect the leads to suit the output you want.

Personnaly I would just get a Nissan one. They were fitted to heaps of different models and are cheap.

Taking the micky? It was 18 at about 5PM but got really cold last night down to about 13 :)

“ Quoted from fxdlidon, posted Monday, January 19th, 2009, 8:02:46pm at here ” ^ once you've got an analogue tps, for the price of one of these http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SS0905&CATID=&keywords=solenoid&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID= (or even an old injector) and a foot or so of rubber pipe, you could set up the Adaptronic as your boost controller. It does it very well (bigsmile)

Where do you connect that bleed valve?
I cant find where to connect it on anny of J1 to J4 connectors.
Need advice,
Thanks,
Lars

I found it:
http://www.clubcappo.co.uk/board/Blah/Blah.cgi?b=AECU,m=1224459855

Just wanted to add to this, as I'm close to final fitment of my E420D

I managed to track down p/n# a22 625 921
Which is CCW rotation
Some of the Nissan tps carry a higher pricetag depending on which model you obtain one from...

The rotation does not matter as it is down to the wiring connections for the correct ecu input.