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How much for a tuned / good car (currently 273 views) |
350matt |
Posted on: Monday, November 14th, 2011, 1:57:40pm |
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Big Member
Posts: 223 Posts Per Day: 0.14 |
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Peeps
having now dipped my toe into Cappo ownership with my silver one I'm gradually modifying mine to get it the way I like it but I'm wondering how much would I have to spend to buy a car that was already sorted preferably with some engine and suspension mods
I'd like something with about 100 ponies and decent body work and a set of decent shocks?
do such cars ever come up for sale?
there's that light blue one thats been up for ages but it looks a bit all mouth and no trouser to me - never was keen on body kits
alternatively I just keep going on mine.....
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lord |
Posted on: Monday, November 14th, 2011, 2:14:15pm |
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Mate thats what i though at first.. those cars hardly ever come up! You're better off importing if u want to turn a british car. Lots of rust issues. I'd deffo import from Japan.
I've spent a small fortune on mine to get to the 100hp mark..engine stage 2.. stainless steel bits like exhaust and down pipe.. N2 ECU but HT04 Turbo. Just need suspension now etc! oh and a petrol tank lol
Tiny's the man to talk to!
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Reply: 1 - 14 |
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Andy |
Posted on: Monday, November 14th, 2011, 3:23:03pm |
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Official C.O.C Contributor
Gender: Male Posts: 23604 Posts Per Day: 3.49 |
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If you are happy with the condition of your current car I'd say better the devil you know and continue to modify that one. With unknown cars you could be getting a lot of unknown problems... |
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Reply: 2 - 14 |
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350matt |
Posted on: Monday, November 14th, 2011, 4:29:49pm |
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Big Member
Posts: 223 Posts Per Day: 0.14 |
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thats kind of the conclusion I'm coming to
mines got a a bit of rust but I'm gradually repairing it and all the structual work is done and mechanically seems quite sound
this is obviously the cue for the diff to try and jump out ....... |
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Reply: 3 - 14 |
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DickW |
Posted on: Monday, November 14th, 2011, 5:24:42pm |
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I'b buy mine and start with something that's good and solid |
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Reply: 4 - 14 |
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paolo |
Posted on: Monday, November 14th, 2011, 6:49:36pm |
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Quoted from DickW, posted Monday, November 14th, 2011, 5:24:42pm at here |
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I'b buy mine and start with something that's good and solid
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I would also buy Dicks, if it is good as it sounds, which I am sure it is
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Reply: 5 - 14 |
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350matt |
Posted on: Monday, November 14th, 2011, 7:00:51pm |
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Big Member
Posts: 223 Posts Per Day: 0.14 |
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from Dicks advert it looks too good to mess with
its museum spec preserve for humanity kind of condition
plus 4k is more than I can afford.....
not that its not worth that |
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Reply: 6 - 14 |
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Avar |
Posted on: Monday, November 14th, 2011, 7:22:24pm |
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I doub't you'll ever find a well tuned (looking good) car, i think the way most owners work is that if they spend a fortune on the car your better off getting your money out of it cause there's no way you'll get even half back if you sell it. The amount i've spent on my car keeping it on the road and buying aftermarket parts which are so expensive cause of the rarity is silly, i know that i'd struggle to get 25% even if i sold it as parts which would give a better return than selling the car as a whole.
Its a sad story but i spose if you can put a price on giggles i'm getting a pretty good return. |
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Reply: 7 - 14 |
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Tiny |
Posted on: Tuesday, November 15th, 2011, 11:16:33am |
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I think the best thing you could do is to stick with what you have.
Then do all the structural work required before starting with things like suspension and differentials before looking at then tuning for more power. You dont need to Spend Huge amounts of money on suspension straight off if you just want a decent improvment I strongly recommend the Tein S-tech springs.
Dont change the wheels they are the lightest you will find and going bigger will cause you arch issues. Even going bigger in ET noticably decreases the handling of the car Suzuki got it right.
Instead spend money on getting your wheels powdercoated and corrosion proofed before a really good set of Tyres Yokohamas or Toyo just stay away from Pirelli P6000s!
In terms of engine tuning in my personal (somewhat very expensive experience at that)
If your not keen on making huge gains but want a little extra punch with a stock ECU then decent intercooler, an un-restrictive air filter, a Decat stainless steel exhaust and a boost controller all can be done exceptionally well for just under £1k. Just make sure you check what pressure your Map sensor can see if it tops out at 12psi and you run 14-15psi = dead engine. The plus side is Should you decide to return the car to stock and have somewhere to store the parts there is no reason why you could not see £5-600 of this on resale if you wanted to sell the car.
When it comes to further tuning If your buying New parts personally I wouldn't recommend going down the route of a N2 etc for the cost you can get something standalone that is vastly better like an Adaptronic or a AEM. though you will need to make other changes to get the best out of them bigger map sensor injectors turbo analogue TPS etc. |
Last modified Tuesday, November 15th, 2011, 12:06:41pm by Tiny |
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Reply: 8 - 14 |
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350matt |
Posted on: Wednesday, November 16th, 2011, 2:16:53pm |
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Big Member
Posts: 223 Posts Per Day: 0.14 |
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Cheers for the reply
I'll get busy sorting out the paintwork then...
I've already tweaked the boost with a manual device and fitted a K& N panel
how do you test for the MAP sensor range as I'm pretty sure its a JDM car
does anyone make De-cat down pipes as well?
and yes I'd agree about N1 N2 ECU's, far better off going the standalone route for the money involved |
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Reply: 9 - 14 |
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Tiny |
Posted on: Wednesday, November 16th, 2011, 3:44:41pm |
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Decat Down Pipe.. for the cost your much better off taking a Very long masonry drill and a Broom handle to your cat apart from a Tiny restriction in flow and the ability to pop in an extra sensor or two like a wideband and an EGT unless your pretty much running balls out like i am theres no point (and i dont even have one yet).
MAP sensor Test. Take a Multimeter and follow the instructions on Page 6E-66 Pg 347 of the service manual. for the vacuum pump use a Bicycle pump with a gauge. What difference does it make if its JDM?
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Reply: 10 - 14 |
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350matt |
Posted on: Wednesday, November 16th, 2011, 7:16:26pm |
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Big Member
Posts: 223 Posts Per Day: 0.14 |
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Hello
I was hoping that the JDM cars had a higher spec MAP sensor
also the serivce manual only gives a voltage figure up to 11.6psi , also says to apply vacuum so I'm assuming thats a typo and they mean pressure
I guess I'll pump it up pas 11.6 psi and see if I still get a volatge reading
so how much benefit is there to blasting out the cat brick? |
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Reply: 11 - 14 |
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Avar |
Posted on: Thursday, November 17th, 2011, 7:43:33am |
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Quoted from 350matt, posted Wednesday, November 16th, 2011, 7:16:26pm at here |
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so how much benefit is there to blasting out the cat brick?
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I think its generally agreed that unless your cat is on its way out and starting to block up, removing it will give approx 1% or 2% more power and about 3dB more volume.
However as you start to play with more power the chances of flooding your cat with fuel start to increase so can be a good preventative measure.
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Reply: 12 - 14 |
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Tiny |
Posted on: Monday, November 21st, 2011, 11:39:05am |
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The difference between a car wit h and without a cat is about 1second faster spool up and the occasional pop of flame on the overrun.
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Reply: 13 - 14 |
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350matt |
Posted on: Wednesday, November 23rd, 2011, 12:45:18pm |
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Big Member
Posts: 223 Posts Per Day: 0.14 |
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cheers for the reply
guess I'll give it a go
and I pumped up the MAP sensor using some of works kit and got it to read up to 2.15Bar Absolute
so this is 16.5psi of boost |
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Reply: 14 - 14 |
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