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BrianV
Posted on: Thursday, September 30th, 2010, 6:31:06pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Hey guys,

  So I'm feeling rather frustrated with my car and need to vent heh. This car has been a headache from the get go unfortunatly. When I first started looking for it I decided to go with an importer close to me. Fully licensed dealer and what not. I was told the selection process would be along the lines of him looking for potential vehicles. giving me a list that would be updated once in a while and from there I'd be able to pick the one I wanted. Then we'd go forward from there etc. Sounded great to me so I put down the deposit and awaited the updates while he was looking.

  I didn't hear back for a while (almost 2 months) so I got in contact and asked how things were going. I was told not only did he find one. but it had already been purchased and shipped... So that by itself was already enough to make me feel a little uneasy. I got a few pictures of the car and some info on it. While I didn't get that before hand or any pictures or anything it looked okay to me from the 5/6 pics I got and I already felt kind of trapped in the deal. Didn't know what else to do other than go ahead. I wanted to walk away from it right then as the process was not as advertised to begin with.

  Well fast forward several weeks. The car came in but all four door dampers were shot and they wouldn't hold up. So I had the guy send them off to BC for a rebuild. 3 came back fine 1 still no good. At that point I took posession of the car with an agreement that the last would be shipped out and shipped directly to me when repaird. This was late December so when I got it home I parked it till spring not wanting to drive it in the snow. Sever weeks after that I ask for an update on the damper and told its back in good repair in his possession. So I ask to have it either shipped to me or a time arranged for me to pick it up. That was the last I heard about it and after 9 months still have not seen that damper again.

  Now come spring time I take it out to drive. Everythings great drives good love the experience. However less than a week of driving not quite 700km, I'm going along the highway and all of a sudden I hear this awful sound and it sounds like I'm rattling a bag of rocks in my engine. So I kill the engine and pull over asap, had enough momentum to safely get to the side of the road thankfully.

  I towed the car to my Mechanics and he dosen't know how to work on it or where to start but he's pretty sure the block was cracked. I start talking with the warrenty company, Lubrico, on getting it repaird. They have me bring it to their certified shop in Kitchener. This shop was beyond a piece of garbage. The guys there I have no good to say for. They not only started the car when told what the suspected problem was but they Drove it in their parking lot instead of pushing. They tell me it needs a new engine. okay fine. I ask them to get me the engine code so I can get the right one. They Literally tell me to forget it as they are Not touching the car at all untill they have an engine sitting there to swap in. How I get the proper one is not their problem. I tell em to piss off and tow it out of their myself with a pickup and car dolley.

  After contacting nearly every single importer I could find that might be able to locate me an engine I find the guys in Vaughan. They take the car in and arrange with Lubrico to have some of the claim paid through warrenty (Lubrico actually paid the full amount of their part which I want to give props to them for btw). This is a month and a half after the car broke originally and I still haven't heard from the guy who brought it in to begin with. Anyway Rightdrive checks it out as to what needs doing to get it going again. Well it needed ALOT. Basically everything in the engine has been re machined or replaced. The head has been rebuilt from scratch the block machined, water pump, tensioner, timing, oil pump, etc etc. I mean you name it its been done.

  I finally get the car back after 3 months of being in the shop. its running Very very rich, and i'm told its just the O2 sensor. So I get one ordered and popped in (that has got to be the most expensive o2 sensor in the world btw..). Well now it hesitating alot and still a bit rich. So I'm told its the throttle position sensor. Got that on order and should be here soon... Well i took it for a drive yesterday. Not far only 45kms total. Everything was going just fine, rough to get going in 1st and 2nd with the hesitation from the bad tps, but after that no issues. On the way home I start hearing this odd sound. gets a bit louder now and then drops away sometimes but kept coming back. Almost home and the sound isn't going away anymore. I hit a small patch of highway and the sounds gone the rest of the way home. When I got home i checked out everything I could think of that would have caused it. Finally get to the brakes and it looks like the rear left brake is really sticky or partially seized So now I have to do the brakes too!

I'm so frustrated atm heh. After owning the car for 10 months I've sunk almost $8000 into repairing it now and stuff still finds a way to break down. Its like anything that is not absolutly brand new has been breaking one after another. There honestly cant be much more that could possibly break.

I'm starting to consider just selling the car and getting rid of the headache. Would be a huge loss but I'm not sure its even worth it to keep going with this. I paid 13k for the car +8k for repairs now. I kind of doubt I'd be able to get the original 13k back...

Sigh sorry for ranting but I had to put it out there heh. I have enough going on right now at home with my disabled brother who just had surgery and has been completely bed ridden for the last 9 weeks that I solely take care of, plus the usual every day crap of work and what not to have to stress about some car that was supposed to be a fun distraction....
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capgun
Posted on: Thursday, September 30th, 2010, 9:15:09pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Bloody Hell I feel your pain, you have had so much trouble so far... I hope one of the owners in the UK can have a looksee and give you some pointers.

I hope your outlook with the car changes soon.
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smart51
Posted on: Thursday, September 30th, 2010, 9:41:43pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Wow, that's quite a story.  The thing with importing a car is trust in the dealer and yours seems a bit iffy right from the start.  I guess the silver lining is that when your car's finished, it will be mechanically as new.  It should last after that.
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Friday, October 1st, 2010, 10:05:04am Quote Report to Moderator
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That is all such bad news - it's worth persevereing though, you'll regret selling it after getting all that done

I've had to redo my rear calipers, they suffer from the same problems as the cappo - the sliders start sticking if the're not maintained well.

If you get problems getting a TPS I've got one here you can have (got a spare o2 sensor but it's a bit late now) I think a couple of my old door dampers are ok too (not perfect) if you still need one I could sort you out the best one.
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BrianV
Posted on: Friday, October 1st, 2010, 1:35:12pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Thanks guys. Sorry for the ranting just had to get it off my chest hah. To Capgun, I'm not in the UK I'm in Canada, southern Ontario. Only fella I know of around here with a kei is Ed and I've not once been able to meet up with him cause everytime we set a time something else happened 

Yeah everything on this car is gonna be new thats for sure. I've even had to replace a few relays and most of the simple wiring inside the car too.

I agree that I'd regret selling it. Just feels like a headache right now keeping it, but I'm sure I will. just hid it for the winter and come back at it fresh in the spring Boy I wish I asked about the o2 on here before hand hah. The one I got cost just shy of 500 dollars. The TPS was a little more than half of that. But both are brand new at least. I did get a new door damper off of Yahoo japan about 2 weeks ago, works great. Thanks for the offers though!
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rossbruinsma
Posted on: Saturday, October 2nd, 2010, 10:23:07am Quote Report to Moderator
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I feel your pain, Brian. I, too, was quite ripped off by the guy who sold me my car. And like you, I should've walked away right off the bat, but oh well...

I think that once everything is on the car you'll feel a lot better. They are 18 years old after all. And with all these new parts, your car should last for quite a while now, knock on wood.

I'm trading in my Smart next year because at 6 years old, I am afraid of the breakdowns that are inevitably coming on the horizon - and nothing from Mercedes is inexpensive!

If you hold on for a "little" while longer, you should be able to sell your car in the US for easily what you have invested in it. That's what I keep telling my wife about my Figaro and the AZ-1!
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ed_markus
Posted on: Saturday, October 2nd, 2010, 5:57:55pm Quote Report to Moderator
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brian,
ed here in toronto
sorry to hear your grief .... it will work out.
hope to get together in the spring ...
putting my cappo (and interceptor) to winter sleep
in about 3-4 weeks.

see you in the spring.

ed
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BrianV
Posted on: Sunday, December 5th, 2010, 8:58:47am Quote Report to Moderator
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Finally got the new TPS in today. Took 9.5 weeks to get that thing. There is a Very very slight improvement in the hesitation, Still hard to get it going. When I'm starting to go in 1st when I let the clutch out and give some gas, it bogs out alot before it starts moving. If I'm not very careful it will stall when I press the accelerator. 1st is the hardest. After that its noticable but not terrible. Actually to clarify it bogs out when I touch the accelerator. If I'm all the way off and press down it will rev down then go no matter what gear or speed I'm moving in. The only thing I can think now is maybe the MAP sensor is not functioning quite right? There is a brand new oxygen and throttle sensor in it now. Plus its still running quite rich (which I was told would have been fixed with the new O2).

Anyone here able to get a hold of a map sensor?? Or maybe let me know how I can test mine? Or have any ideas where I need to look next or things I can do?
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Sunday, December 5th, 2010, 2:14:09pm Quote Report to Moderator
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MAP sensor is identical to the one fitted to the cappo, it's even got the same part number. Unfortunately I just sold my spare to Ezra. Try sending yorkie a pm I think he's got one for sale.

Are you sure the TPS is adjusted corectly - the closed throttle need to open at about %2 throttle .
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BrianV
Posted on: Monday, December 6th, 2010, 12:56:01am Quote Report to Moderator
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Thank you for the response! I don't have a multimeter to check the TPS. I should probably go get one of those as they are handy to have around regardless.

I've been thinking I might have more success with this if I upgraded to an adaptronic system? Anyone have any thoughts on going that route? At least then I could get a better picture of where the problem is I think. Right now I haven't even been successful trying to pull a code off the current ECU. Plus I've read on here that the adaptronic system is quite good. If that system fixes it I'll probably save money as opposed to the current guess and replace everything bit by bit strategy.

If that is the way to go I'd forever love the person that can give me a detailed list of what to get and where to get it
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Ricou
Posted on: Monday, December 6th, 2010, 1:29:02am Quote Report to Moderator
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fxdlidon has one on his AZ-1 so he's the one

Last modified Monday, December 6th, 2010, 1:29:12am by Ricou
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Monday, December 6th, 2010, 2:05:57pm Quote Report to Moderator
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You can get away with just the adaptronic and a loom adaptor, although a 3bar map sensor and an analogue TPS make a big difference. Wiring is almost idenctical to the cappo apart from two wires ( I can give you the details )
Not sure wher you'd source one, if there's no Canadian distibutor you could go straight to the manufacturers in OZ.
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brett
Posted on: Wednesday, December 8th, 2010, 1:29:44pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Hi Brian, sorry to hear about the troubles you have had

My guess as to why the car hesitates when you touch the throttle comes back to the fact its running rich.

How far rich do you think the car is running? To clarify - do you get blackish smoke while idling? Is the car running the factory ecu / injectors?

If its not spitting fuel out the exhaust, have you tried changing the CO resistor? (On upper left of engine bay, left of the coil)

See this thread:
http://www.clubcappo.co.uk/board/Blah/Blah.cgi?,b=Technical,v=display,m=1214557330
and these might be handy
http://www.clubcappo.co.uk/board/Blah/Blah.cgi?b=HT,m=1276863162
http://www.clubcappo.co.uk/board/Blah/Blah.cgi?b=HT,m=1140126614

I've read it can help with "fine adjustments" to fuelling, however I have no experience of how wide the adjustments can be myself.

I assume that you have checked for fouled plugs / air filter (unlikely) / correct fuel pressure regulation etc.

I'm just thinking out aloud, hope this might point you in the right direction with your current setup.
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BrianV
Posted on: Wednesday, December 8th, 2010, 5:11:52pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Hey Brett,

  Thanks for those links. I'll look into that stuff.  The car is running really rich. Definate black smoke at idle, pops out a good pufff of it as you rev up but clears up in the mid rev range. To give another example I get ~250-275km per 25L tank of gas. The ECU is stock the injectors I don't know but I'm assuming stock. I haven't changed them at least. There does seem to be a small piggy back module attached to the ecu. I'm not sure what it is exactly but it looks like a delimiter or something of that nature.
Another interesting point is stone cold right after starting I noticed no or Very little hesitation. Thats just tapping the throttle btw not pushing it high or anything. The rev hangs for a few seconds before dropping back. After it warms up if I tap the throttle it revs down. I have to slowly depress the throttle for it to rev up.

  I'll see what I can find re: the resistor tonight. Thank you.
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Wednesday, December 8th, 2010, 5:29:14pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Could you post up a pic of the piggyback module, that might be what's causing your problems and someone on here might be able to recognise it.

Your car is seriously drinking fuel - I get 250miles from 25L even with the 320cc injectors!
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BrianV
Posted on: Wednesday, December 8th, 2010, 6:24:02pm Quote Report to Moderator
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yep, I'll post a picture of that up asap, hopefully tonight. uick question on the resistor. What exactly does it look like and located in the az-1. I Think i found it but don't wanna guess. I think its to the left side of the engine bay, is it small has 2 little plugs in a T shape? There is white writing on the outside "L2" on two sides. That sound right?
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Ricou
Posted on: Wednesday, December 8th, 2010, 7:15:01pm Quote Report to Moderator
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If it's fine when cold but too rich when warm, you might want to check (how ? I don't know) or replace the water temperature sensor... a faulty sensor wouldn't let your ECU know that engine is warm, so it would still run rich when not needed.
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brett
Posted on: Thursday, December 9th, 2010, 2:38:50am
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Like don said your car is definately drinking fuel. Mine used to get around 360km from 25L in city traffic.

I like Ricou's idea above, it sounds very plausible. (more so than mine lol) It may even be something simple like the wiring is not making a connection properly.

There are two water temp senders on the az-1. One connects to the ecu, the other to the dashboard temp gauge. I'm pretty sure its the green plugged one that is the ecu sender.

They are located near the bottom left of the intake manifold on the az-1


Last modified Thursday, December 9th, 2010, 2:47:51am by brett
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brett
Posted on: Thursday, December 9th, 2010, 2:40:08am
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Here is a page out of the suzuki cappo parts manual.

Interestingly, both the IAT and ECT senders are the same part number (and are the same as used in the az-1 / cara).


Last modified Thursday, December 9th, 2010, 2:50:51am by brett
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brett
Posted on: Thursday, December 9th, 2010, 2:41:12am
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If you need to test them this page gives the details

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brett
Posted on: Thursday, December 9th, 2010, 2:44:44am
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The L2 resistor you describe sounds like the one - here is a picture of mine

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BrianV
Posted on: Thursday, December 9th, 2010, 8:20:28am Quote Report to Moderator
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Thank you for all that info Brett. I'll look into that water temp sensor too, thank you Ricou. I have here a picture of the little black box sharing space with my  ECU. I'm honestly not sure what it is





The ribbon wire you can see on the left side loops around under the ecu and goes into the right side. I didn't get a picture of it there but I can if it would help.



And the resistor. This is the one I should measure and I should get 430ohm right?

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Ricou
Posted on: Thursday, December 9th, 2010, 6:12:52pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Good job Brett with the pictures. As you noticed, it's the green plug and it's the same part as the one that measures Intake Air temp, so it might be worth a try to swap them.
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BrianV
Posted on: Friday, December 10th, 2010, 2:16:03am Quote Report to Moderator
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I tested the CO resistor. It's an L2 so it should measure 430. I got a reading of 431 so that should be fine.

I'll be looking into more tomorrow. I'll update if I find out anything. Thanks so much for the help and suggestions so far everyone!

Last modified Friday, December 10th, 2010, 2:23:38am by BrianV
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BrianV
Posted on: Saturday, December 11th, 2010, 12:03:56am Quote Report to Moderator
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Pretty big update... I took the car to another mechanic. Talked to him a bit yesterday about the issues. We agreed that since he had no idea about this engine or had any manuals I would pay him for 5 hours labour to get familiar with the car and do whatever testing on anything that he needed to do. Then from there we'd discuss what was wrong and what if anything needed replacing.

Well I went to the shop tonight to see how he made out. He made out pretty damn good. The car is running 100% PERFECT. Its not rich at all, you can barely even smell fumes if you stick your nose in the tail pipe. There is no hesitation. The normal idle is bang on. Every issue I had is corrected. I honestly could Not believe it. This guy did in 5 hours what the guys in Vaughn could not in 9 MONTHS.

The shop for anyone interested is Saisan Motors the are just off of Ottawa street near Homer Watson in Kitchener Ontario. Here is what they found wrong. New TPS installed wrong. Was giving a reading of almost 6 volts, way out of spec. Map sensor was not hooked up, the vacuum lines double back on itself so the solenoid wasn't able to operate at all. Intercooler piping was not tightened, was leaking a lot of vacuum pressure. Almost the entire emissions system was plugged in wrong. Timing was off almost 6 degrees. Lastly brand new spark plugs were fouled, one wasn't even tightened and was sitting loose.

I'm very happy atm that this Nightmare is over! Thanks to everyone who helped me try and figure it out. But with the mess that engine was in I probably never would have gotten it sorted. The guys at Saisan are my new heroes hah.

Now I'm wondering how much of the last 8000-9000 dollars were wasted because the parts being replaced were fine just not installed properly
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Ricou
Posted on: Saturday, December 11th, 2010, 1:53:53am Quote Report to Moderator
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Oh my... the guys who "repaired" your car should get their a** kicked

Anyway, glad you found a fine mechanic and you can at last enjoy your car
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brett
Posted on: Saturday, December 11th, 2010, 4:12:04am Quote Report to Moderator
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Brian I'm really glad to hear you've got the car running right

It sounds like your new mechanic is a keeper. Anyone who can sort a problem without a handbook has at least some idea of what they're doing.

I can't find another 'competition box like the one you have pictured, if you are interested enough and can see what wires on the ecu / harness it connects to I'd be happy to try to figure it out. (It's got me intrigued)

In the meantime, just enjoy driving your car, after the troubles you've had I think you've earned it
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mattjohns
Posted on: Saturday, December 11th, 2010, 5:42:43am Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from brett, posted Saturday, December 11th, 2010, 4:12:04am at here
It sounds like your new mechanic is a keeper.




There's a sentence I don't get to hear often.  Glad to know everything is sorted after a nightmare - persistance actually paid off 


I believe the "Competition Parts" would be this --> http://www.autoxpat.com/shop/power-assist-mazda-pg6sa-p-10001817.html

Last modified Saturday, December 11th, 2010, 5:46:16am by mattjohns
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brett
Posted on: Saturday, December 18th, 2010, 2:22:27pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Been talking to a mate in ontario earlier... hope you had a chance to drive the az-1 before all the snow hit Brian!
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mdh
Posted on: Sunday, December 26th, 2010, 7:38:35pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Just keep reminding yourself how good its gonna be once the snows gone Brian
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BrianV
Posted on: Saturday, March 26th, 2011, 1:29:15am Quote Report to Moderator
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I had my car out last week a bit when it was really nice and sunny. Before this surprise dumping of snow blasted us...got it back safely in its nest the day before the snow hit luckily. Drove it up to Toronto and back. The difference in it now is unreal. So much fun to drive, though a bit scary on the expressway when you go past a transport truck haha. I got a bit over 300km driving done and have used just barely a half tank of gas .

I'm getting the car all ready to bring to shows and what not in the area this year. Thinking of doing something fun with the colour If that pans out I'll pop pics up for yall to critique.
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mdh
Posted on: Monday, April 11th, 2011, 10:11:28pm Quote Report to Moderator
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Pics? 
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BrianV
Posted on: Monday, April 11th, 2011, 10:25:28pm Quote Report to Moderator
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No new pics yet. Hit a bit of a snag with the turbo But if all goes well I should have some nice new pics to show in 2-3 weeks.
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AZ-1
Posted on: Tuesday, April 12th, 2011, 1:00:31am Quote Report to Moderator
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Whats going on with the Turbo?

AZ-1
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BrianV
Posted on: Tuesday, April 12th, 2011, 1:31:31am Quote Report to Moderator
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http://www.clubcappo.co.uk/board/Blah/Blah.cgi?b=AZ1OS,m=1302529963

Two posts under this one. Its toast

After a lot of back and forth discussing with Streeter. I'm thinking the best I can do is get it rebuilt locally. I don't know if a shop here can do it but Im going out to find out and hopefully get a quote. Been a really frustrating weekend trying to get sorted out what I can do. Looks like I'm going to be paying out somewhere in the $1000-$1200 range to get this thing replaced. I've been looking for a fresh rebuild or brand new part. I'm not going to chance a used one. Not with my luck.

The thing is, in the range I'm looking at for a rebuild, I'm almost in the area of a full F100-M kit... Really don't know whats best to do.. I just can't seem to find out 100% what turbos will fit without any other modifications. Straight up OEM fit. As far as I can tell my only option for that is the RHB31 VZ25. I'm not even sure if the VZ24 from the cappo would fit right on there. Biggest snag I've hit is all the rebuilds in Japan require core returns within 14 days. I doubt I can hit that timeline without spending an extra $300 on shipping. Even the F100 would require the old ECU back... though I imagine it would cost significantly less to ship an ECu as opposed to a turbo
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Tuesday, April 12th, 2011, 10:51:27am Quote Report to Moderator
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The VZ24 from the cappo will fit straight on - the only difference is the boost curve it produces, starts earlier and runs out sooner than ours.
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fxdlidon
Posted on: Tuesday, April 12th, 2011, 10:56:35am Quote Report to Moderator
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Universal turbos, here in the UK, could do a rebuild for you - they charged me about £400 to do my HT07. Not sure if the postage would be any cheaper than going to japan.

Here's the link anyway http://universal-turbos.com - might be worth getting a quote.
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mdh
Posted on: Tuesday, April 12th, 2011, 11:13:09am Quote Report to Moderator
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Or find a s/h Cap turbo from one of the ones thats getting broken up....

£50 should be plenty, plus p&p...

Maybe theres someone here fitting an f100 kit that'll have a spare?
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