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 Guide to change the clutch :)? (currently 607 views) |
| ycming |
| Posted on: Sunday, February 27th, 2011, 10:53:43pm |
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Hey peeps,
IS there any guide with pics that tell you how to do a clutch change  ?
I have already read the service manual 
Thanks
Ming |
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| Streeter |
| Posted on: Thursday, March 3rd, 2011, 6:37:23pm |
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did mine just the other week. one tip (probably in the service manual)
remove the clutch lever arm on the side of the gearbox when you go to put the gearbox back in. the trans tunnel is pretty tight and the arm hits the side of the trans tunnel and knocks the throw out bearing out of position just before you can get the input shaft lined up.
*Oh also take note of the torque specs of the flwheel and clutch cover as they are quite light, If I hadnt seen them I would have definitely overdone the flywheel bolts as they are lighter spec than most.
*last one, probably best to get a spigot bearing/flywheel input shaft bearing as they are roller bearing and crap out faster than plain bearing ones. This cost me a few days off the road waiting for one to come in as I didnt figure I would need it.
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Reply: 1 - 19 |
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| ycming |
| Posted on: Monday, March 7th, 2011, 1:19:38pm |
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Thanks for the pointers streeter, will take note when coming to do it.
Yeah i think the clutch kits comes with the friction plate, pressure plate and the bearing .
Thanks
Ming |
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Reply: 2 - 19 |
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| Streeter |
| Posted on: Monday, March 7th, 2011, 4:00:48pm |
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most clutch kits come with the throw out bearing but not the spigot bearing (small one that sits inside the flywheel and centre the input shaft of the gearbox)
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Reply: 3 - 19 |
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| ycming |
| Posted on: Monday, March 7th, 2011, 6:30:46pm |
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oh ah, thanks again. I'll buy that part too then.
Do you need to remove the flywheel to fit the spigot bearing?
Thanks
Ming |
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Reply: 4 - 19 |
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| Streeter |
| Posted on: Wednesday, March 9th, 2011, 11:10:15am |
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yes, its not a hard job and knocks in/out pretty easy with a correct sized socket to match up with the out side edge of the bearing and taps out with a hammer. once you have the clutch off its literally a 10 second job to get the flywheel off. Just make sure to take note of the torque settings for the flywheel bolts when you do it back up. (surprisingly light)
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Reply: 5 - 19 |
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| ycming |
| Posted on: Wednesday, March 9th, 2011, 3:03:46pm |
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Yup yup thanks again, is the torque setting is in the manual?
Just checked the manual, indeed only 40-45 NM.
Thanks
Ming |
Last modified Wednesday, March 9th, 2011, 3:07:29pm by ycming |
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Reply: 6 - 19 |
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| Nick_Sawyer |
| Posted on: Saturday, March 12th, 2011, 4:01:32am |
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I've done it at least 6 times now, so if you get stuck on anything that isn't already covered on the forum or manual, just ask.
Further to Jesse's tips:
- If you haven't got skinny little arms, removing the dizzy will give you much easier access to the 3 top bolts (2 bell-housing and 1 top of starter) and long spanners or the ratcheting type will help a lot here.
- Removing the shifter extension (might be mentioned in the manual to do so) from where the shafts attach to the gearbox will make manoeuvring the box in and out much easier.
- Don't forget to disconnect the wire from the reverse switch before moving the gearbox.
That's all I can think of off the top of my head... |
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Reply: 7 - 19 |
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| Streeter |
| Posted on: Saturday, March 12th, 2011, 4:04:26am |
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^^I used really long extensions and 3/8 drive single hex sockets to get the top bolts of the bellhousing / starter motor out. But you are right guiding them in sucks.
youve killed 6 clutches/boxes? dont tell me that, These things pretty fragile?
Already done it once with only 20kms worth of driving in the car... not looking forward to doing it all the time! 
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Reply: 8 - 19 |
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| Nick_Sawyer |
| Posted on: Saturday, March 12th, 2011, 4:43:42am |
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Quoted from Streeter, posted Saturday, March 12th, 2011, 4:04:26am at here |
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youve killed 6 clutches/boxes? dont tell me that, These things pretty fragile?
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Nah, just multiple issues.
1. Gearbox noisy, opened and inspected - hardness worn off gear teeth, but still ok.
2. Original clutch slipping (after 120k km) so replaced with Exedy kit.
3. Driveline shudder with new clutch and machined flywheel - pulled out, checked reinstalled.
4. Still has driveline shudder - pulled out inspected again, flywheel machined properly at speed shop (clutch shop I went to has a rep for bad machining)
5. STILL has some driveline shudder - remove box put old clutch in. No shudder. Should have done this first. Dyno guy tells me he has issues with Excedy often and tries to avoid them.
6. Install new clutch disc. All is good. Drink many beers.
7. Engine has weird vibration. Engine out for rebuild - pull gearbox out first.
So yeah, plenty of experience with it 
FYI: Also, took gearbox to race gearbox builder for inspection when first out. He says gearset is good for 140hp at the wheels. |
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Reply: 9 - 19 |
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| Streeter |
| Posted on: Saturday, March 12th, 2011, 6:48:52pm |
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what were the vibrations like and under what circumstances?
I have an exedy 3 puck clutch fitted and it seems to be ok.
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Reply: 10 - 19 |
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| Nick_Sawyer |
| Posted on: Sunday, March 13th, 2011, 4:11:03am |
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| I had a normal OEM style Exedy. Vibrations would occur under higher engine load (take off from standstill, and best example was accelerating from 60 in 5th) and the whole car would shake, similar to a crook uni. |
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Reply: 11 - 19 |
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| Streeter |
| Posted on: Sunday, March 13th, 2011, 5:51:23am |
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hrrrm maybe mine isnt that good either! LOL I thought it was from just loading the car up with not enough revs? if the car is heavy load and under 3500rpm it seems to shudder and vibrate a bit. But normal cruising at those rpm and higher rpm is super smooth.
interesting that it might be an out of balance clutch. Would have thought that it would get worse with rpm?
*note I also fitted a 3.5kg flywheel at the same time. |
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Reply: 12 - 19 |
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| Nick_Sawyer |
| Posted on: Sunday, March 13th, 2011, 9:58:23am |
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Mine did the same thing under 3500, but with standard flywheel. Got the old clutch disc to do a comparison with?
I have a 3.4kg flywheel to go on mine once the engine is all back together, so we'll see if mines still smooth after that... |
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Reply: 13 - 19 |
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| Streeter |
| Posted on: Sunday, March 13th, 2011, 1:37:49pm |
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it doesnt bother me enough to pull the clutch out and check, the old clutch was slipping badly which was the reason it was pulled out. Putting load on it would just slip and not shudder.
seems smooth enough high in the revs so Im not too phased, interesting it might be the clutch out of balance, still cant get my head around how it wouldnt be worse with higher revs (just like an out of balance wheel or something)
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Reply: 14 - 19 |
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| ycming |
| Posted on: Sunday, March 13th, 2011, 6:48:04pm |
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Man you guys are tempting me to do the clutch myself rather than paying the £120
Ming |
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Reply: 15 - 19 |
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| Jean_Mayers |
| Posted on: Thursday, March 17th, 2011, 9:46:29am |
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| Hi , Nick Sawyer said "disconnect the reverse light switch " so,,, How ? ,, exactly where do you uncouple the wires ?? Before or after the G/box is lowered ?? Thanx -if you can be precise.......... |
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Reply: 16 - 19 |
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| Nick_Sawyer |
| Posted on: Thursday, March 17th, 2011, 12:45:52pm |
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| From memory its under the intake manifold midway along, small white connector. Easiest way to find it is to follow the wire up from the switch with your hand... |
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Reply: 17 - 19 |
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| Jean_Mayers |
| Posted on: Thursday, March 17th, 2011, 11:28:36pm |
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Reply: 18 - 19 |
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| Streeter |
| Posted on: Wednesday, April 27th, 2011, 4:29:42am |
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“ |
Quoted from Nick_Sawyer, posted Sunday, March 13th, 2011, 9:58:23am at here |
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Mine did the same thing under 3500, but with standard flywheel. Got the old clutch disc to do a comparison with?
I have a 3.4kg flywheel to go on mine once the engine is all back together, so we'll see if mines still smooth after that...
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just an update...
no longer vibrates like that under load with lightened flywheel and low RPM after I fitted the F100M kit. I suspect clutch is ok and the standard engine runs a huge fly wheel (~8kg) to get rid of low RPM load vibrations.
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Reply: 19 - 19 |
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