Cheers, my presentation has always been a bit questionable.
I've got to still tidy the wires, once i allocated whats needed for what sensor for the adaptronic, there's enough available for plenty of mods to come. Trouble is the engine bay could really do with a clean and respray but its too late now. I think this car is now just the work in progress and colection point for the grander scheme. If i can get my hands on a workable chassis which shouldn't be hard with the amount of cappo's i've got to break, i'll then have that renewed and transfer everything i know works, over.
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capgun
Posted on: Monday, May 3rd, 2010, 10:23:55pm
Guest User
wise idea
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irishgtxx
Posted on: Friday, May 7th, 2010, 9:57:54pm
Guest User
looking good kei, i like the lowness of it, looks awesome, although the thought of driving it over here in Ireland is laughable, Ive got ssr springs with a heartland body kit and it scrapes all the time! the bumper brackets are a good idea, must look into making a pair for my bumper, one side has already got a nasty crack starting! did you buy that spoiler or did it come with the car?
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Avar
Posted on: Saturday, May 8th, 2010, 6:53:14am
Guest User
Cheers, the spoiler came with the car along with the optional extra mud flap thingies, i think it was that which made me get the car, it was the first cappo i saw in real life and looked realy cool, since seeing others i'm glad i did as i'm not too kean on the plain rear end of the cappo.
The bumper struts were an after thought at the end of a weekend of working on the car, as i had the welding gear out and off cut strips of steel hanging around i quickly coupled something together, cleaned the chassis support under the car and welded a big a** nut to it on either side, bolted and riveted the struts to my aluminium plate i previously fitted to the bumper and bolted the whole thing to the newly welded nuts. Its unbeleivable strong now.
Now the front springs have been refurbed i've got 11.5 cm front clearance and approaching speed bumps is not the worry that it used to be.
Next on the list is the bypass pipe, the last few parts will be turning up in a couple of days, so i can start on that soon and then i should finally have it ready for tuning.
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Avar
Posted on: Friday, May 14th, 2010, 7:13:50am
Guest User
Well after putting in 4hrs of work a night for the past 4 days, i've finally got the bypass pipe done. The welds aint pretty and i've got a slight blow on the weld i did to the existing exhaust when adding a flange, but that can be fixed next week.
But i'm still pretty chuffed with the outcome, the exhaust note has changed a little to, less resonance and about a tone higher, i will post before and after videos when i get a chance.
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steve
Posted on: Friday, May 14th, 2010, 9:01:22am
Guest User
That looks pretty damn good. Shouldn't it have a bracket mid way down?
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Avar
Posted on: Friday, May 14th, 2010, 10:37:30am
Guest User
Cheers
I Figured the bracket was really just there to take the weight of the heavy Cat canister. I can't see a bracket on the cappo sport design. Unless its generally agreed it needs one for vibrations i think i'll not put it on.
I think I'd prefer a bracket on it than possibly snapping the turbo/manifold studs.
Drop me a PM if you would like to be added to the ClubCappo Member Map. More details can be found here. We now have an official Facebook group as well as a page! See here
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Cappo
Posted on: Monday, May 17th, 2010, 1:12:48pm
Guest User
Good work Kei - were you happy with the turbo flange?
I'd go without a bracket if your system has the gearbox bolt-on mounting still attached. (Unlike the Suzuki Sport front pipes).
If not, go with a bracket but use a bracket that allows some movement due to heat expansion and one that is stiff enough to allow the vibration to be restrained. (like a clamp on sleeve that then has a piece welded on that goes back to the engine mounting bracket).
You want to try to stop vibration fram causing the pipe to crack at the welds but not to fix it too rigidly to cause cracking due to thermal expansion / contaction.
Last modified Tuesday, May 18th, 2010, 7:05:34am by Cappo
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Avar
Posted on: Tuesday, May 18th, 2010, 6:49:07am
Guest User
Cheers and yes very happy with the flange thanks although it may have overcooked it fraction as i have a tiny blow, but that could just mean i need to retighten one of the bolts. Bolts were a bit of a pain and in the end i used the same type allen bolts used on the manifold for 3 of the 4 bolts. The nearest exhaust mount is about a foot past the gearbox so i will figure out some sort of vibration reducing mount that bolts onto the existing cat mount.
I need to make some minor mods i.e. need to loose about 3mm from the length of downpipe and shave about 8mm off the bottom lip of the flanges at the other end as i noticed it's now the lowest part on the car and with two peeps in the car it now just catches the highest speed bump i have to negotiate. Also i want to bend the pipe just before it connects to the exhaust by about 5 deg as I'm not happy with the way the flexible section has to be bent to meet this pipe.
Anyway still very happy with it so far and for 100 pound which includes buying the wire and gas for the Mig was a bargain compared with off the shelf pipes.
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Avar
Posted on: Friday, December 9th, 2011, 5:43:26pm
Guest User
Right then after posting last week that my poor thing had failed its MOT from some quite alarming rust, i've had a chance to start.
It's been a really good day, i had the whole day booked to replace a turbo on our Iveco van, it actually took me 1 and 1/2 hrs plus the same driving to and from it's location so the rest of the day could be spent working on my car .
I had already gathered together everything i needed except the sheets of metal which finally turned up midday anyway and i had allready stripped the seat and belt out, so it was all go for grinding and welding.
But first this;-
This is where my seatbelt mount should be, it passed the mot but as soon as i put a spanner on it, it broke right off. Now i advise anybody that can, to check there mounts (including passenger) as this wouldn't have survived an impact or more importantly i wouldn't have despite it passing the MOT tug test.
Now back to the main pics
I removed the door and fitted/welded a big a** bar to retain chassis shape, then cut the top of the outer sill and bent it back to reveal the rot. After grinding the rest of the panel out and welded areas down.
I then cut and did the same to the centre panel.
I then cut out the inner section in parts and then using my spot weld bit drilled out key weld areas and ground down other areas ready for fitting of new section.
Light was starting to go so i cut out the crappy edges of the floor and ground down to clean metal ready for fitting new edge strips. Lastly before the light had gone i quickly sprayed the clean areas with zinc to keep our wonderfull climate at bay till tomorow.
Not bad for a days work, a bit of fettling about in the morning and i should be ready to start fitting new panels and fixing the floor. There's still lots to do but with the good start i've had i hope to get her back up and running before xmas.
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lord
Posted on: Friday, December 9th, 2011, 6:58:49pm
Guest User
Doesn't it have to go on a jig?
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lord
Posted on: Friday, December 9th, 2011, 7:08:20pm
Guest User
Bypass and down pipe? Any difference?
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Avar
Posted on: Friday, December 9th, 2011, 7:27:53pm
Guest User
Not an amazing difference, about a tone higher and and lil less resonance, less boomy. I'll post a vid one of these days.
I'm not using a jig mainly cause i'll need to have a lot more of the car stripped but also it shouldn't be needed with the precautions i've made as long as its not left too long like it is. The bar keeps it spaced right and the underside of the car is suported with a plank, at the end of the day i checked and the chassis hasn't moved at all.
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Avar
Posted on: Saturday, December 10th, 2011, 6:54:07pm
Guest User
Another day of work and she's coming together
I made up some lengths of angle, about 30mm and 25mm L shape and guide riveted them to the floor pointing up for easy welding. Made up some patches for the fron and rear bulk heads, and welded them in place.
Cleaned up the edges and part welded the inner sill in place. The welds aint pretty but its better than what was there originally.
I didn't do any pics as the day progressed just did a few at the end of the day.
Rear bulkhead repair
Front bulkhead
And outside view
Hopefully the rain will hold off tomorrow so i can finish welding this panel and think about plugging the next panels in place.
Last modified Saturday, December 10th, 2011, 6:54:39pm by Avar
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lord
Posted on: Saturday, December 10th, 2011, 8:36:00pm
Guest User
Looks like a decent job to me so far!
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Avar
Posted on: Saturday, December 10th, 2011, 9:17:27pm
Guest User
Cheers, about 12 months of thought have gone into this, i was holding out though till i could get into a workshop, but the MOT tried to call my bluff so i had my hand forced and have to do it outside in the winter on a gravel hardstanding. Thnkfully the passenger side aint half as bad as i dont have the sills for that, i'll just have to patch it. If the moeny situ works out i'll get the ally's i need and may even get around to fitting the arches.
I got a new toy last week too so i can progress with my half started bonnet project, once thats fitted she'll look like a real ricer.
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Avar
Posted on: Sunday, December 11th, 2011, 2:26:57pm
Guest User
Only got 1/2 day in today, due to rain and running out of wire, but i got the middle sill section plugged inplace (just needs grinding) and the door back on to keep the rain out.
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Avar
Posted on: Monday, December 12th, 2011, 6:34:07pm
Guest User
Got another couple of hours in this arvo, couldn't believe my eyes though, all the plugs and welding i did yesterday had allready started to rust, the UK climate is an absolute pain.
Here's a couple of pics after i ground all the plugs and welding down, then zinc primed everything to give me as much protection as possible ready for the final panel. I decided to form the section thats fixed to the inner sill as it was far to rusty to try to repair, it aint pretty, but it's strong and hidden away.
And now with the last panel offered up, its a spot on fit and nice and snug, i'm very happy
I gotta full day tomorrow to hopefully finish this side off, then light repairs to the other side and ready for its retest.
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lord
Posted on: Tuesday, December 13th, 2011, 10:00:49am
Guest User
Fair play for doing the work yourself. been watching this thread closely over the last week or so. where did you get the sills from? Was this a difficult job? What about the rear inner arch? And repainting??
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Avar
Posted on: Tuesday, December 13th, 2011, 5:44:42pm
Guest User
The sills were bought off ebay as were most other items i've used with the exeption of welding gas, panel sealant and red paint.
The rear inner arch will be done once i can get the rear tyre off, i will be just cutting the bad bit out and welding in a fabbed panel, painting is fairly easy for me, almost all of it will be covered up with body kit or cabin plastic, so as long as its rust proof and water tight i'll be happy.
Difficulty wise i'll say its very difficult, finding spot welds with your finger tips to drill out and ensuring your not cutting to much to cock up refixing can be time consuming and hard work. Welding to old panels is a pain and fraught with the danger of burning the old metal out, grinding and welding while laying down is a pain, specially outside and no-one selling small goggles suitable for mig welding is just stupid (how else can you weld in tight spaces?). But the satisfaction of seeing panels going on outways all the bad points. As i've said previously the time taken thinking about this project has been massive and practising drilling spot welds on other cappo's has helped no end.
This isn't the sort of job where you want to learn everything as you go on, its too big for that, you will defo need some background welding and grinding practise.
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Avar
Posted on: Wednesday, December 21st, 2011, 9:59:57pm
Guest User
I've got the odd 1/2 day in here and there and after todays 1/2 i managed to remember to get some pics
I've finally got all the plugs welded and any repairs needed to the front door post, which was causing the door to sag about 1/8" and making shutting a pain (bellow the lower hinge mount was rotten). Almost all has been ground down where visable. Everything was zinced again for total protection, then primed and a mist coat of final done (purely for cosmetic satisfaction at the end of the day).
She needs final sanding off before the main coats go down and i can then get her off the ramps, but i'm very happy with the job so far.
Just need to pick up some paper and more mig gas before hols and i'll be all go for finsihing her off.
I also remembered to get a few pics of the rear bumper mod i did back in the summer.
and from behind
The alu panel was cut about to fit roud the rear can but its long enough to reach the subframe and is bolted to a nut i've welded in place.
Last modified Wednesday, December 21st, 2011, 10:00:28pm by Avar
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Avar
Posted on: Thursday, December 22nd, 2011, 11:11:20pm
Guest User
I got some more time in today, more grinding and sanding and got a few coats of paint down, this is just the base coat but i'm really chuffed with the way its come out.
Great job dude, impressive. Glad to see your Cappuccino is gonna be healthy again !
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Avar
Posted on: Saturday, December 24th, 2011, 9:35:30am
Guest User
Cheers, this side atleast will be healthy, the other (although not as bad) will need to be plated and patched as i dont have the panels to do the same. But i'll make sure she's well sealed up so hopefully before she gets as bad as this side was i'll be able to aquire new sills.
Yesterday, allthough i didn't manage to get any pics, i managed to get the final coat of paint on and tarted up the lower lip of the door which was showing signs of bubbling. I also sealed the underside join where the floor meets the new panels and got a good coat of underseal on including undersealing the front arch again and worked my round the front of the car. Then started putting plastic back on and fitting the new led bulbs i got for the dash (which although is bright white, still is a bit dim).
The hardest job was aligning the door back up, in my wisdom i changed the door hinges for some that were less worn so spent ages getting the height, gaps and the twist of the door right. Not a fun job when you have to adjust the door without the front wing yet need the front wing fitted to check alignment all the time being carefull not to scrape the fresh paint, but she's done now and today i can spin her round and back on the ramps ready for the after xmas repairs.
Most disapointing part of the day was fitting the new speaker to the driverside footwell, i ordered a 5 & 1/4" cone with pretty decent range and 80w rms handling but when tried to fit it saw that the measurement they give you is for the absolute outer dimension which was not the measurement i took, i actually need something like a 6 & 1/4" speaker, and when i tested it and compared it to the original in the foootwell it was pathetic, i could not believe that the 20 year old 8w clarion cone was clearer more responsive and gave out a much louder fuller sound
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Avar
Posted on: Wednesday, December 28th, 2011, 7:52:18am
Guest User
Well now the over indulging is over i can get back to work, i've set the car up ready to work on the passenger side and took a few before pics.
Well i can say she's not as bad as i've seen before, which is good as i dont have the panels for this side. I can patch this side up, thankfully the middle sill panel is in pretty good condition and evrything will be covered by the skirts.
I did get the take off arches out yesterday also and checked lines and where i would be cutting and was not so pleasantly suprised to see a slight difference in the sizes of the rear arches. Its not a lot, but it will make lining up and balancing of the rear flares a lil harder. All i need now is bloody rimstock to answer my calls with a price and manufacture date of the alloy's i want.
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Avar
Posted on: Wednesday, December 28th, 2011, 5:22:21pm
Guest User
Well not much to show today as its all repairs to the centre sill, but i managed to get the first half of the outer patch done, i'm really loving plug welds, they make life so much easier and are so easy to clean up.
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Avar
Posted on: Tuesday, January 3rd, 2012, 8:14:13am
Guest User
Got some more works done the other day inside the rear arch. That had to be the hardest bit of welding i've done, not very complex but zero space to work in but very happy with the outcome.
Inside the arch.
And outside showing good penetration with the outer sill.
I've just got to do similar in the passenger rear arch and a bit of structural welding to do in this arch that i exposed to be very rusty, then sealing and undersealing then i'll be done.
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Avar
Posted on: Wednesday, January 11th, 2012, 8:26:27am
Guest User
Well after almost a month of laying on my back in the cold getting grinder dust in the face molten weld on the hands and sparks in the hair, i was able to finish all the welding and sealing yesterday and get her off the ramps ready for assembling the body kit.
here's a couple of pics of the finished rear wheels housings.
Another hour today and i'll have the kit on and ready to take to the garage for brake lines and MOT
I've got the wheels on order and being machined to spec now, so this wont be the last time she see's the ramps this year but atleast the bulk of the work has been done.
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Erik
Posted on: Thursday, January 12th, 2012, 9:53:41pm
Guest User
Wow, what a massive undertaking! And all this outside. My hat off to you for the job you've done so far. Maybe I wouldn't do it the same way, but one has to admire your determination and your resilience to carry such a big job out all by yourself. Congratulations!
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Avar
Posted on: Friday, January 13th, 2012, 7:16:35am
Guest User
Thank you i've been fortunate in that all of the works i've done gets covered up, i could've spent another day or so in total cleaning welds further and maybe a bit more care sppraying her up, but this car is my daily not a show car (you only have to see the engine bay to know that ). But i am very happy with the works i've done. Apart from the previously mentioned weld cleaning i dont think i could've done a better job on the drivers side, the use of new sills made it easier and discovering things like plug welding and seam sealer has made the result looking heaps better than some of the "pro" repairs i've seen done on cappo's i've broken up.
In an ideal world i would've removed the subframes and given the whole car a going over but that requires atleast a garage and more time, maybe in a couple of years when i've got my next house i'll do it.
She got a lot more work to come, the rear arches are still a mess but with the new wheels on there way that will be done soon and my bonnet project is on hold again untill i can source some pads for my main sander, but i hope that by the summer of this year i'll have her looking the way i want. I just need to find a rear spoiler i like that isn't over priced.
Last modified Friday, January 13th, 2012, 7:17:57am by Avar
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pzooo
Posted on: Friday, January 13th, 2012, 12:11:19pm
Guest User
What are the silverish things on the bonnet for?
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Avar
Posted on: Sunday, January 15th, 2012, 11:43:32am
Guest User
I presume you mean the bonnet catches, they are a bit tatty now as they are only the cheap halfrauds ones and rust pretty easily but i think they break up the bonnet area nicely. I fitted them mainly though as most cappo's i've driven have the bonnet lifting after about 60MPH, as they only have a hook in the centre unlike larger cars which have extra catches on the front corners for peace of mind.
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Avar
Posted on: Tuesday, February 7th, 2012, 11:26:50am
Guest User
Well the past couple of weeks have been a bit of a downer with my car, but i think i've located the bits for the engine so all is good ish.
But these finally arrived today well 2 out've the 4 but it's still enough to make me very happy
Pro race 1.2 15 7j with 20 offset
there's lots of clearance and perfect to mount the R888's on i think i can get away 235's on the rear.
Looking good during test fitting
and only project this much, so should look good with the take off fenders
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Avar
Posted on: Tuesday, February 7th, 2012, 11:29:47am
Guest User
Forgot to say, weighing in at 6.8kilo minus tyre compared to the stock with toyo CF-1 weight of 12 kilo's.
Not sure about the weight of the R888's but i dont think i'm gonna be adding that much extra weight compared to the extra grip i'll get.
Nice wheels. Are you planning on cutting the steel arches in order to fit the take-off fenders ?
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Avar
Posted on: Wednesday, February 8th, 2012, 7:59:53am
Guest User
Yes, lots more grinding, welding and fibre glassing to do now. Plus i'll need to make up some arch liners.
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Avar
Posted on: Wednesday, February 22nd, 2012, 10:50:36pm
Guest User
I ordered myself a rear tyre over the weekend and had it fitted this afternoon so that i could test fit and get an idea of what needed to be cut to make everything work.
Rear wheel and tyre (looks tiny doesn't it? )
test fitted to rear, looks like once the arch has been cut it will drop a further 10mm (now it looks a lot bigger)
And the all important eat my dust view
Now the front end, bare in mind the fronts will be 10 - 20mm narrower but 5mm higher aspect
A lot more work than i thought will need to be done to the front, this is at full lock and its just catching on the front bumper and full lock the other way couldn't be acheived as it was catching the front of the skirt as well as the lower wing section.
Inner clearance is perfect but i've pushed the wheels out about 20mm so thats to be expected, weight wise the tyres are heavier than expected i'd say ive added about 4kilo's of extra weight per wheel.
The materials for fitting have started to turn up, i need to start making the fibreglass parts that are to be fitted to the arches at the points i'll be cutting them and come up with a clever way of fixing these.
I'm thinking of cutting them like this
The rear bit will be fitted to the bumper and bolted from the inside to the rest of the arch, by cutting it at a 30ish deg angle i hope to achieve a production look. I'll be doing similar to the front and then everything will be fibreglassed inside, then filled and then further fibreglassed. I've managed to get my hands on some flexible zinc and plastic coated metal sheets that i should be able to turn into replacement arch liners. I've got 450gsm fibre matting for this work (real thick and heavy duty) should be perfect for getting a nice strong arch.
Last modified Wednesday, February 22nd, 2012, 10:51:16pm by Avar
Posted on: Thursday, February 23rd, 2012, 9:03:50am
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Looks like there's a lot to do, as you said... Good luck mate.
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Badger
Posted on: Friday, February 24th, 2012, 6:29:41am
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Having just Finished mine, it's good to see someone else doing similar. I followed the the Original lines of the Bumper to make it look like it was always there..... Traced the shape onto A4 paper, cut along the line, then transferred it onto the Flare for cutting. Followed the Skirts and Door line for the other cuts. Well pleased with the Result. Have a look in Sneaza 2 Album.....
Good luck with this, just remember, when you cut the Rear Arch, the Outer and Inner panels will not be strong as they will seperate. Tack weld them together before you attach the Flares to retain rigidity in the Panel....I can't weld, so Pop Rivetted mine, fibreglassed over the Arch, attached the flares, then fibreglassed the entire lot again.....Strong as. Sanded smooth, then applied the Body Deadener.....you'd never know it was attached.
Cappuccino Owners Club › Gallery › Cappo Related Album › Kei's car (Moderators: )
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Kei's car (currently 2440 views)
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and i had allready stripped the seat and belt out, so it was all go for grinding and welding.
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